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January 15, 2007

Cultural Survival

My recent trip to Cuentepec, the indigenous Pueblo near Cuernavaca, was thanks to a class that I sat in on last week. The teacher, Gerardo, has close ties with indigenous people in the region and his concern for the continuation of their culture comes through in his teaching and in the projects he has begun with local people to deal with material issues. For instance, people in Cuentepec traditionally put waste into the ground and it recycled naturally, Gerardo told us. But they don´t know how to deal with plastic, which does not degrade but simply collects everywhere as trash. He is working to find a way to consolidate all the plastic and have it taken away.

Gerardo believes the indigenous in Mexico should become autochthonous, living separately from the rest of Mexican society, ordering their own lives, following their own laws, practicing their own religions. I certainly share a deep concern for the plight of indigenous people and recognize that they have needs that are both material and cultural. In Cuentepec, water arrives only once a week. The doctor, when he is there, is only there in the mornings. The possibilities for education or for any kind of material abundance are all depressingly limited.

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January 14, 2007

The Real Mexico

¨It is in these blocks that the prostitution begins,¨ Felipe told me. I admit, I was so distracted with everything else going on around me that I would not have noticed, not right away, that one or more young women loitered on every street corner. They stood there so casually that if I´d seen them I would have assumed they were waiting for their boyfriends, or their mothers.

Felipe Hidalgo, who teaches at Universidad Internacional, has always gone out of his way during the last three Januarys to show me something about Mexico. I´m always aware that Cuernavaca, the excursions we take from there, provide a very thin slice of Mexico. When Felipe offered to show me the ¨real¨ Mexico, I was ready.

So, we had spent the morning on a tour of Mexico City. For lunch we ate at Casino de España, a beautiful restaurant with a small company of waiters ready for the rush of diners who arrive mid-afternoon for comida. Only after lunch did we plunge into the crowded streets near the Palacio Nacional and the heart of Mexico City.

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January 9, 2007

Nutrivida

Yesterday I wanted to solve several problems at once and the key was to find a good cup of coffee. A strong one. My favorite place from last year, La Manchita, closed a few months ago (probable because I was not around), so I headed down San Jeronimo and checked into a new restaurant, La Torta. At 10:30 A.M. it was deserted, except for the restaurant dog who proved quite friendly. After a minute or so and a few happy barks from the dog, a nice, middle-aged woman appeared to give me the news that no, she had no coffee, but she did have tea, a special tea.

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May 31, 2006

Burden Bearing

At Lago de Atitlan I stayed in Panajachel. No surprise there--lots of tourists stay there. Yesterday, walking through the streets I happened onto a couple more tourists, Nate and Todd who had hiked up Pacaya with me. We talked together for about an hour and exchanged important travel information. Like, what times the ferries run (when the boatman gets enough passengers), where are you likely to get assaulted, and what is the medication routine for various antibiotics. Important stuff.

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May 30, 2006

Atitlan

Lago de Atitlan sits in a valley surrounded by mountains, of which the highest are volcanoes. The view across the lake, any time of the day, is spectacular. The lake is in the Guatemalan highlands, 3 or 4 hours from Guatemala City, and as you approach it you see the villages becoming almost entirely Mayan. Women here almost all wear the traditional, oolorful skirts and blouses, many with the distinctive headgear of their locale. You hear Mayan spoken on the street. Spanish serves as the second language for the boatmen, children, vendors, and passersby.

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May 28, 2006

Pacaya

My arrangements for the trip to Volcan Pacaya had cost so little that I wondered just how minimal they might be. Would I be picked up in someone´s old Datsun, drive the hour and a half to the volcanoe park, and then shown where the path up the volcano began? When the van finally arrived at 6:30 in the morning, I was a little relieved to see I wouldn´t be touring the volcano alone. In fact, the van was built to carry 12 people comfortably, but managed to seat 15. I hadn´t had what I would call a good night´s sleep, and felt a little dodgy otherwise. So, I quickly saw that the hard part of the day would be surviving the trip to the volcano.

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May 27, 2006

Antigua

I had misgivings about paying for special transportation from Guatemala City to Antigua. What´s next? Taking a tour bus? But Steve, who shared the ride with me, told me that friends of his had taken one of the chicken busses to Panajachel and that the bus had been stopped, passengers told to lie down, and then their baggage was rifled. I didn´t feel bad anymore. Plus, our driver´s name was Elvis, so how could I have afforded to miss that?

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May 26, 2006

Tayasal and Flores

Although I could have flown back to Guatemala City after my trip to Tikal, I arranged to spend one night in Santa Elena, just across a short causeway from Flores. I've wanted to visit Flores for months, as soon as I read about it in a history of the Maya. But I didn't know that it was Flores I wanted to see. It stands on what had been Tayasal, the "last capital of the Maya" according to Museo Popol Vuh.

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May 25, 2006

Tikal

The trip to Tikal should have turned into a disaster, a slugfest with bad karma, good intentions gone haywire. It began with my rolling out of bed at four in the morning with about that many hours of real sleep. Everything went like clockwork from that point, which meant I arrived at the airport way early and with no breakfast. And, while I tried to piece together the most important meal of the day over the next three hours, I also spent the time waiting for and taking the flight on Tikal Jets.

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May 23, 2006

Guatemala

Guatemala City is the largest "urban aggolomeration" in Central America, 4 million population according to one of my taxi drivers today. Even though I attempted to make my acquaintance with the city on foot, after an hour of steady walking up and down Avenida La Reforma, I found I hadn't covered very much of the city. It goes on and on.

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March 8, 2006

Uxmal

March 10: The whole point of this trip was to gain some familiarity with Mayan culture. I´ve now toured four Mayan sites in four days, and I might have predicted that by now they would all look pretty much the same to me. Not so! First, I made the uncharacteristically good decision to begin with sites that don´t have the reputation of overwhelming visitors. Tulum has an extraordinary setting, on a promontory over the Caribbean. Otherwise, though, is is not exciting to a casual visitor like myself. Coba, and then Chichen Itza fulfilled my desire to find powerful testimony of Mayan culture in the city ruins.

Uxmal, however, has an attraction all its own. More compact than Coba or Chichen Itza, it has many more buildings standing in a condition that allows you to see them as buildings. The courtyard of the ¨Nunnery¨ (probably a palace) could probably accommodate a soccer field. What the imposing buildings on each of the four sides probably imposed was the difference in wealth, rank, and power of the ruling class compared to the ordinary men and women who may have attended rituals there. The palace buildings, like many of the structures in Uxmal, allow you to imagine what they might have looked like when in use. Of course, you have to ingore the colorful names given by the Spanish--the governor's palace, the sorcerer's castle--since they had no idea what purpose the buildings served.

Remember, too, that buildings here include their decoration. At Coba I paused over every stela, trying to make out the form or picture engraved in it, thankful for the picture provided by conservators. Weathering has pretty much wiped out the messages of the stelae. At Uxmal, though, the pervasive representations of Chac-Mool look as detailed as they did when Alvarado first led conquistadors into the tropical jungle. Okay, I don't know that. But the decorations at Uxmal are detailed, and the designs have remaind in good condition through the centuries.

Uxmal, by the way, received a stamp of approval from a long-time traveler in Central America. I met Charlie two days later. He was finishing up several months in Central America, selling property he had owned for some years, and preparing to spend more time traveling--in Southeast Asia. Over the years he has visited many Mayan sites, and he chose Uxmal as one of the most impressive.

Chichen Itza

March 6: On Monday I spent the morning at Coba, an amazing site from the classic period, the centr of a gridwork of roads leading to other Mayan cities. From the top of the pyramid you can take in the surrounding jungle for miles, and better appreciate the achievemnt of the Mayans. Not to dismiss their great works of city-building, but it was amazing that they could live her at all. This peninsula is a flat shelf of limestone, with little in the way of surface water except for the cenotes that dip down into the limestone rivers below. The organization of labor around agriculture must have provided the base for organizaing it around religion and civic life. I´m sure it´s true that it takes a village to raise a child. Here, it took a city to raise a crop.

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March 7, 2006

Tulum

March 5: I had made plans to stay at the hip El Crucero in Tulum. When I arrived, howevr, the reception guy told me that the woman who had my room the night before had broken her foot. He told me the story sevral more times as he showed me my alternative, a two bunkbed dorm room that might have really apealed to me 25 years ago. I thanked him, said I´d find another place, and walked across the stret to a hotel called El Acuario (there was a moment when I thought it was called El Actuario). The room I ended with cost more and was comfortable enough. And, unlike the situation at El Crucero, I had the place to myself. That is, I pretty much had the hotel to myself. Tourists voting with their feet and Visa cards preferred El Crucero about 50 to one, at least on Sunday night.

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May 23, 2005

What I have learned from telenovelas

Anyone who has seen more than an occasional split second of Spanish-language TV knows that many hours on it are given over to relationship dramas that feature many spectacular changes of fortune for the protagonists and also deal with powerful emotions. Telenovelas are often referred to as “soaps,” but unlike American soap operas telenovelas offer complete narratives, with beginnings, character development, and conclusions. The cast members can then migrate to other telenovelas or make movies or otherwise develop their careers. These are spectacularly popular in Latin America. Brazil produces more telenovelas than any other country, and in the past these dramas have taken a role in political change in the country.

Telenovelas are also popular in Montenegro. Excluding satellite offerings, Montenegro supports six channels (remarkable in itself). These stations import a lot of content (making subtitle translation a viable career path for my students). American movies are very popular. Other programs come from Serbia, France, and Italy. But in terms of hours of television time, telenovelas account for more TV time than any other imported programming and probably for more than all other foreign content combined. On weekdays, between 5 and 7 P.M. every channel has at least one telenovela. One channel, Pink (which I think might be a Balkan super-station) has repeats of telenovelas in the morning, at 5, 8, 10, and 11 and then braodcasts the new episodes between 4 and 9 P.M.

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January 17, 2005

Acapulco

This morning as I walked along the main road along the beach in Acapulco a sidewalk rep for a tourist cruise approached giving me the opening lines of his spiel. I kept walking, saying in Spanish that I was leaving today but otherwise giving him no more attention than I give most of the shop owners calling out "¿Algo especial, amigo?" or "¡Barato, barato!¨ But as I walked off I heard him say in English, ¨Do you have a temperature, friend?¨ My immediate thought I leave to your imagination. But on further reflection I realized that the tour-boat rep was right. I had a bad attitude. People come to Acapulco to have fun, and I wasn´t having any.

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January 12, 2005

Culture and Civlization I

I´m sure that readers of Blue Monkey will quickly agree that the distinction between culture and civilization still carries the taint of ethnocentric and racism. German intellectuals from the romantic era to the Nazi interlude took for granted that Germans possessed a special civilization (Kultur) that set them apart from other people. Western Europeans generally saw ¨primitive¨ peoples as falling short of civilization if, indeed, they were capable of attaining it. Anthropology appeared in the late 19th century as a science of culture, that is, the study of people that the Europeans had colonized.

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January 5, 2005

Sistema Imperial

The group from Seton Hill arrived in Cuernavaca without incident on Saturday, January 1 and quickly settled into the program here at Universidad Internacional. The families who came to the school tp pick up the students all seemed pleased to meet their new ¨hijos¨(well, mainly hijas) and the students obviously reciprocated the warmth. By the next day, when we went on an excursion to Taxco, I overheard one student say that her cheeck was raw from kissing new acquaintances. By Monday most had become adept at calling taxis and asking before they got in, ¨¿Cuanto cobra a...?¨ and then negotiating adjustments if the prices quoted is not the usual 25 or 30 pesos.

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March 10, 2004

The Argentine Debt

This week Argentine President Nestor Kirchner agreed to pay the $3.1 billion due to the International Monetary Fund (IMF). This seems like a defeat for Kirchner, who last week swore that Argentina would never pay its debts "with the hunger of its people." The Economist, however, points out that later this year Argentina will receive the money, and another $10 billion, in further loans. It isn't clear who "blinked" in this confrontation. There also remains the question of Argentina's debt to its private creditors, some $88 billion.

What is clear, though, is that for most Argentines globalization has lost whatever allure it may have had. In a recent debate reported in today's Pagina 12 a former presidential candidate claimed that Argentina's attitude toward the IMF was that of a swimmer who asks for help, but when the lifeguard pulls him to shore he shouts criticisms at the lifesaver. "It isn't that way," responded the head of the cabinet, Alberto Fernández. "In this case the lifeguard (bañero) threw us into the middle of the river and told us it was the safest place to be."

Read further if you want the Spanish text.

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February 7, 2004

Another Terrorist Threat Averted

The February 6 edition of Pagina 12 (Buenos Aires) reports that the United States has refused to issue visas for a group of Cuban musicians who had wanted to attend the Grammy ceremony. "The dangerous visitors were unmasked when American officials discovered that 'they are paid by the Communist Party of Cuba of its government,'" thus making them a threat to the security of the United States. The potential terrorists included pianist Gullermo Rebalcaba, percusionist Amadito Valdés, and the singer Ibrahim Ferrer. "I don't feel like I'm a terrorist," Ferrer said.

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September 22, 2003

San Jose Redux

This is more of a coda than anything, but at least you can see how the trip ended.

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More Blue Monkey Chronicles

Another beautiful interlude at the beach, another rainforest. There is no way I can make this sound unattractive.

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Manuel Antonio

After our ecotour adventures [one rainforest, one volcao], we headed for the beach. I can't think about Manuel Antonio without wanting to return. Maybe it isn't too good to be true, but it sure seemed that way.

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Arenal and Monteverde

After leaving San Jose we plunged into the world of Ecotourism. This remained a theme until the end of the trip. After all, when Sara and I planned the trip, we wanted to see a) one rainforest, b) one volcano, c) one beach.

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Heredia

The adjustment to life in Costa Rica went very smoothly for me. Uncharacteristically, I didn't fall ill, and I managed to avoid other disasters. Here are some observations about the town where I lived during my first week.

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Costa Rica 1

In the summer of 2003 I traveled to Costa Rica for several weeks. What follows will be the journal of my trip that I sent to friends as I traveled. This first entry deals with my "transition" from the U.S. to Costa Rica. As I set out on long trips, I'm always at my most neurotic. See for yourself.

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